Flashback: Old Skool Ain't Always Bad

I have this craving for the new and exciting. It's a Gemini thing--always seeking that which is new and different and kinda scary/weird/cool to experience.


But while my Sun and Ascendent are in the air, my Moon is solidly ensconced in Capricorn, and there is a huge part of me that just loves traditional places and foods. Which brings me to Stone Hearth. When we first moved to Kentucky, I was terrified that my days of eating in decent restaurants was over (little did I know then of the thriving food scene in Louisville). I was certain my dining choices would be limited to fast food chains and flavor-free buffets stuffed with overcooked veggies and loads of fried meat-substances.


There was one place in Elizabethtown, however, call Stone Hearth. We avoided it at first, mainly because it looked expensive and we were not exactly rolling in the dough. However, when I got a steady job the school board, my boss took me to lunch at Stone Hearth for Secretaries Day.


I have to admit, my first thought after lunch was, I need to get Fey in here.


Since that first encounter, Stone Hearth has become one of our places in E-town, somewhere to go for a good meal, great service, and fantastic decor without having to drive to Louisville. The food is consistently good, and while the prices are slightly higher than your average chain...so is the quality.


But we were talking about traditional things, and that is the focus of this article. Stone Hearth is traditional. It's Old Skool (as they say): white tablecloths, crystal glasses, low lighting. Your entrees are brought out on a rolling cart. The salad bar is decorated with floral arrangements. The soundtrack (at a tasteful volume) is right out of my parents' vinyl collection- Frankie, Deano, and Rosemary Clooney...with the occasional Micheal Buble thrown in for good measure. I often suspect mob deals are being made back in one of those dark, dark booths.


Granted, this is the sort of restaurant my grandparents frequented. And you know, that's not such a bad thing. There's a lot to be said for old-fashioned service, solid menu items, and a dignified atmosphere.


We always try to order an appetizer, when the budget allows. Fey's favorites are the brie-filled phyllo tarts and the Red and White crab dip (oooh, those lavash crackers are to die for!). I loved the portabello fries when they have them, although it's kinda on the Do Not Indulge list now.


The core of Stone Hearth's menu, though, is high-end Middle America—beef, chicken and other meats. They do have a fairly decent seafood section, particularly the salmon. I had it grilled for supper one night, and I was stunned at how good it turned out. (We live in Kentucky—not exactly the place to get fresh fish.) Fey usually orders the prime rib (which they will trim to her satisfaction), however last night she got the crab-crusted salmon in lobster bisque, which was absolutely delicious. The salmon was perfectly cooked, the crab cakes were crispy and not too bready, and the lobster bisque was delicious.

Dessert comes offered on a doily-lined tray, usually when you are so stuffed you don't even want to think about not-actually-Derby Pie, or Italian Wedding Cake, or that delicious hand-whipped cream topping which Fey sometimes just orders on the side by itself.

Of course, during it all, your servers (ask for Marie—she's awesome and tells great stories) bring you bread. An entire article could be written about Stone Hearth's bread. First you're given a warm, home-made roll with strawberry butter. Later, you get what I believe they call a butterflake roll. It's the unholy love child of a croissant, a muffin, and a dinner roll, and it's addictively evil. These are my downfall, especially when I'm trying to control calories and portion sizes. I could forego dessert for two more of these things. Seriously.

In the end, though, the best thing that sells Stone Hearth is the service. We go often enough to have our favorites, and the staff know us and our food issues. Jennifer last night, remembered our drink orders (I always get Diet Pepsi and Fey, unsweetened iced tea) from Christmas. Marie, as I mentioned before, is a pro with a fantastic European accent and a warm and funny personality. Paul and Charles always make us feel like old friends, and well…you get the message.

Stone Hearth is a little oasis of civility in an increasingly crass and thoughtless world. It may be old-fashioned with perhaps not the most cutting edge of cuisine, but that's not such a horrible thing, is it? There's a lot to be said for the way things were, and when nostalgia tastes this good, I'm all for it.